What is a dew claw on a dog?

As a dog owner you’ll probably notice the small extra nail set above the paw at some point — on some dogs it’s obvious, on others nearly invisible. Dewclaws are one of those details that prompt questions: should they be removed, do they cause problems, and how do I care for them during hikes or grooming? I typically see owners become worried after a torn nail or when a puppy breeder brings up removal. Understanding what dewclaws are, how they function, and how to manage risks makes everyday care and activity choices easier.

Dewclaws and Your Dog: What Every Owner Should Know

Owners ask about dewclaws for practical reasons: appearance for show dogs, recurring snags during play, or the cost and timing of removal when getting a puppy. For people who work dogs — herding, hunting, skijoring — even a small extra nail can change how a dog grips or suffers injury. Companion dog owners often notice that long-haired breeds catch the dewclaw in undergrowth, or that an older dog’s dewclaw no longer wears naturally and begins to grow into the fur or skin. Decisions about dewclaw removal are usually driven by these real-world concerns rather than abstract rules.

Puppy decisions about removal often happen quickly after birth. Breeders may advise clipping or amputation in the first few days while tissue is still small, and some owners want that for cosmetic or presumed convenience. I typically recommend weighing breed, future activity, and veterinary guidance before choosing removal, because the benefits and risks vary by dog.

What Is a Dewclaw? A Concise Definition

A dewclaw is a rudimentary digit with a nail located higher up on a dog’s leg than the main toes — usually on the inner side of the front legs and, less commonly, on the hind legs. Front dewclaws are more common and are often fleshy with bone and soft-tissue attachment; rear dewclaws are less consistent and sometimes occur as doubles (two nails together) or are completely absent. Unlike the main weight-bearing toes, dewclaws typically do not contact the ground in normal standing, and their nail structure can be finer and angled differently than the paw nails.

Inside the Dewclaw: Anatomy, Structure, and Purpose

From an anatomical and evolutionary viewpoint, dewclaws may represent a vestigial digit that persists in many mammals. In dogs, dewclaws contain bone, tendon, ligaments and nerves in many individuals, meaning they are not just a flappy piece of tissue. Comparative anatomy suggests they are a remnant of earlier limb structures that could still serve specific roles depending on how a dog moves and what it does.

Functionally, dewclaws can help with grip and precise movements. When a dog makes a sharp turn, digs, holds objects, or climbs uneven terrain, a front dewclaw may brace or catch, improving stability and preventing the paw from rolling. Working and hunting breeds often show a more robust dewclaw anatomy that is likely linked to these mechanical roles. In some breeds, especially those selected for rugged work, breeders have preserved strong dewclaws on the hind legs (sometimes double dewclaws) because they appear to provide traction on rough surfaces.

There is also a sensory and soft-tissue component: dewclaws are supplied with nerves and blood flow and can be sensitive. Injury to the dewclaw can therefore be painful in the same way as a torn toenail. Breed-specific anatomy matters — some dogs have dewclaws with well-developed bone and tendon attachments, while others have a small, poorly structured dewclaw that is more prone to snagging or infection.

Spotting Trouble: Common Dewclaw Problems and When They Occur

Dewclaw problems tend to show up when dogs are active off-leash, working in brush, or engaging in rough play. Running at speed, sudden turns, and gripping prey or toys can pull a dewclaw against vegetation or hard surfaces. I often see dewclaw injuries after a hike through bramble, a collision during play, or when a dog’s dewclaw catches on fencing or a crate door.

Terrain and vegetation increase risk: thorns, wire, and dense underbrush are common culprits. Life stage matters too — puppies have small, delicate nails that may tear easily, while elderly dogs may lose range of motion or grooming habits that allow dewclaws to overgrow and curl back toward the paw. Overweight dogs may put different stress on their feet, altering how claws contact surfaces. Certain breeds — especially those with long hair around the feet or breeds known for double hind dewclaws — show higher rates of snagging and injury simply because of anatomy and coat type.

What to Watch For: Early Signs and Risks of Dewclaw Injury

Acute signs owners should not ignore are obvious: sudden limping, visible bleeding, a split or dangling nail fragment, or persistent licking and guarding of the paw. A torn dewclaw that leaves exposed tissue or a visible quick (the fleshy, blood-supplied part inside the nail) will often bleed and cause immediate pain. In those cases prompt attention is needed to control bleeding and assess damage.

Infection signs may start less dramatically: swelling at the base of the dewclaw, warmth to the touch, redness, a discharge or pus, and a foul odor are signals that bacteria have become involved. Chronic problems include nails that overgrow and curl into the fur or pad, recurrent snagging, and thickened or malformed nails that split repeatedly. Systemic signs — fever, lethargy, loss of appetite — with a painful paw may suggest a deeper infection and require urgent veterinary care.

Practical Dewclaw Care: Clear Steps Owners Can Take

1. Inspect: Check dewclaws weekly during general grooming and after outings. Look for cracks, splits, swelling, overgrowth, or embedded debris. Part the fur and examine the skin at the base.
2. Trim: Keep the dewclaw nail short so it can’t catch easily; for many dogs this means trimming every 2–6 weeks depending on activity and growth. Use sharp clippers and avoid cutting into the quick; if the nail is dark and the quick is not visible, trim small amounts and stop if bleeding occurs.
3. Immediate first aid: For a torn or bleeding dewclaw, apply direct pressure, clean with saline or a gentle antiseptic wipe, and use styptic powder or cornstarch to help stop bleeding. Bandage lightly to protect the area for short periods; seek veterinary attention if bleeding continues or if the tissue looks devitalized.
4. When to call the vet or consider surgery: Contact your veterinarian if there is persistent bleeding, signs of deep infection, repeated tearing of the same dewclaw, or if bone is suspected to be involved. Surgical removal of the dewclaw may be advised for recurrent problems, severe fractures, or certain tumors; that decision is best made with a vet who can assess anatomy and function for your dog.

When trimming at home, place the dog on a stable surface, support the paw and dewclaw, and clip a small section at a time. For dogs with a visible quick, stop well before it. If bleeding does occur, remain calm — pressure and a styptic will usually stop it. If you are uncomfortable trimming or your dog is uncooperative, ask your veterinarian or a trained groomer to demonstrate technique so you can learn safely.

Preventing Injuries Through Environment and Training

Reducing dewclaw injuries often means changing the environment and the way you manage activity. On trails with thorny brush, putting your dog in a calm harness and guiding them away from thick undergrowth helps. Supervised play on rough surfaces and avoiding tight fence gaps or unstable crates lowers the chance of snagging. For working dogs, planned conditioning over varied terrain can strengthen muscles and coordination, potentially reducing awkward slips that pull at dewclaws.

Behavioral steps include training better recall and tighter leash control so you can redirect a dog before it bolts into risky areas. Teach your dog to wait at gates and practice lifting paws calmly so inspection and trimming are less stressful. At home, remove or pad sharp protrusions in the yard and keep long-footed breeds groomed so that heavy fur cannot mask or pull at the dewclaw.

Dewclaw Tools: Clippers, Protective Boots, and Helpful Gear

• Sharp, high-quality nail clippers sized for your dog (guillotine or scissor style) and a rotary grinder for smoothing edges.
• Styptic powder or cornstarch, antiseptic wipes (chlorhexidine or iodine-based), and clean gauze or adhesive bandages for short-term protection.
• Protective booties for hikes and paw balms or waxes to reduce snagging on rough terrain and to protect against environmental abrasion.

Store these items in a dedicated first-aid kit so they are ready after outings. Choose clippers and grinders that fit your hand and match your dog’s nail size; inexpensive tools can crush or splinter nails, increasing the injury risk. If you plan to use booties, practice at home so your dog accepts them before a long walk.

Sources and Further Reading

• Merck Veterinary Manual: Claw and Nail Disorders in Dogs — Merck Veterinary Manual, merckvetmanual.com
• American College of Veterinary Surgeons (ACVS): Dewclaw Removal — ACVS Client Information Sheet
• Fossum TW. Small Animal Surgery, 4th Edition. Elsevier. Chapter on soft tissue surgery and amputation techniques.
• American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA): Guidelines on elective surgical procedures and discussion of dewclaw amputation in dogs.
• Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association (JAVMA): Clinical reports and reviews on canine nail injuries and management.