What to do if dog is choking?

What to do if dog is choking?

If a dog starts choking, seconds matter and the situation can feel frightening even for experienced owners. This guide is written for dog lovers who want clear, practical steps to act fast and safely — whether the problem happens during a game of fetch, at a busy dinner bowl, on a walk where something was scavenged, or in an older or short-nosed dog whose airway is already more vulnerable.

Everyday moments that can lead to a choking emergency

Choking can appear in predictable settings: supervised play with toys or chews that break apart, a game of fetch where sticks or balls become lodged, or chew-time with a bone or large raw chunk. Fast eaters at mealtime, dogs fed whole bones or overly large kibble, and those on raw-feeding protocols can also be at higher risk. Outdoor walks bring hazards like discarded food, sticks, or small rubbish items that a curious dog might swallow. Caregivers of small-breed dogs, seniors with dental or swallowing problems, and brachycephalic (flat-faced) breeds commonly need this guidance because their anatomy or age places them at greater risk of airway obstruction. I typically see choking incidents spike in multi-dog homes during competitive eating or when toys are shared without supervision.

First steps — a concise checklist for a choking dog

  1. Assess breathing and responsiveness immediately — look, listen, and feel for airflow and whether the dog can cough or vocalize.
  2. If the dog is conscious and coughing, encourage coughing and keep them calm; do not force the mouth open.
  3. If the dog cannot cough, breathe, or is making only weak sounds, perform size-appropriate abdominal thrusts (Heimlich-type maneuvers) to try to dislodge the object.
  4. If the dog becomes unresponsive, open the airway, look for an obvious object to remove only if easily seen, begin CPR, and arrange urgent transport to an emergency veterinary clinic.

How choking happens: common causes and contributing factors

The airway is a short, shared corridor at the front of the throat where the larynx (voice box) and trachea (windpipe) sit just in front of the esophagus. A foreign object can lodge at the mouth, back of the throat, larynx, or travel down partway into the trachea and block airflow. Swelling from injury or an allergic reaction can also narrow the airway without a visible object.

Foreign-body obstruction usually causes a sudden inability to move air, whereas soft-tissue problems may start more gradually with noisy breathing and progressive distress. The cough reflex is a powerful clearance mechanism but has limits: it clears loose materials in the upper airway but may be unable to expel large, smooth, or tightly wedged items. Gag and swallow reflexes can be blunted by panic, sedation, neurological disease, or age, which is why older or neurologically impaired dogs sometimes choke on food that would be tolerated by a healthy adult.

When it happens — typical triggers and high‑risk situations

Common triggers include eating too quickly, giving inappropriate-sized treats or hard bones, and letting dogs chew toys that can break into small pieces. Household items—socks, children’s toys, battery caps—are frequent culprits found at emergency exams. Outdoor scavenging of sticks, corn cobs, or discarded food can produce serious obstructions; I regularly see head-in-the-gutter scavengers present with lodged foreign bodies. Breeds with short muzzles often start with narrower upper airways, which may be exacerbated by inflammation. Dental disease, missing teeth, or neurological conditions that impair chewing and swallowing raise the chance that a dog will choke on otherwise normal food. High-energy play, car rides where a dog gags on a thrown object, and unsupervised scavenging are practical situations to watch for.

Recognizing danger: subtle and obvious signs your dog is choking

Watch for inability to breathe, a silent panic pawing at the mouth, or an inability to cough — these are urgent. Gums or tongue turning blue or very pale may suggest oxygen deprivation. Collapse, loss of consciousness, or severe agitation with unproductive efforts to breathe are emergency signs. Persistent noisy breathing, high-pitched wheeze, or excessive drooling and retching can mean a partial obstruction that may progress quickly. Rapidly worsening noise, swelling of the face or neck, or any signs of systemic shock (pale mucous membranes, weak pulse) require immediate veterinary attention.

Emergency interventions owners can safely perform now

  1. Stay safe and calm. A panicked owner is more likely to be bitten. Approach slowly and speak softly so the dog keeps trying to breathe or cough instead of fighting.
  2. Open the mouth and look only if the dog allows and you can see the object without pushing fingers deep into the throat. If you can clearly see a foreign item and it is loose, grasp it with a thumb and forefinger or with gauze for grip and pull it straight out. Do not attempt a blind finger sweep on a conscious dog — pushing blindly can lodge items deeper.
  3. If the dog is conscious but unable to cough or breathe, perform abdominal thrusts tailored to size: for a small dog, hold them on their back against your chest and place both hands behind the last rib, then give quick upward compressions toward the diaphragm; for a larger dog, stand behind or beside them, place your hands just behind the ribcage and deliver quick, firm compressions inward and upward. Repeat until the object is expelled or the dog becomes unresponsive. These maneuvers may feel unusual but are intended to create an artificial cough to force air out of the lungs.
  4. If the dog becomes unresponsive, carefully lay them on their side and open the mouth. If an object is immediately visible and reachable, remove it. If not, begin CPR: chest compressions to circulate blood and rescue breaths to provide oxygen; continue compressions and breaths while you or someone else rushes the dog to an emergency clinic. If possible, have another person call ahead so the clinic can prepare.
  5. Throughout, protect yourself: a choking dog can bite. Use a leash or slip lead if needed, and consider a soft muzzle only if the dog is breathing adequately—never muzzle a dog that cannot pant. Wear gloves if available. Time is critical; after any airway event, the dog should be evaluated by a veterinarian even if you remove the object, because damage, swelling, or residual fragments may remain.

Reduce risk: handling tips and training to prevent choking

Training and management reduce risk. Teach reliable “drop it” and “leave it” cues using high-value rewards and short, frequent training sessions; these skills save lives when a dog picks up something dangerous. Slow-feed bowls, puzzle feeders, or scattering kibble during training can prevent gulping. Match kibble and chew sizes to your dog’s mouth and jaw strength; avoid small, brittle toys or chews that shatter. Regularly retire toys with loose parts or heavy wear.

Supervise high-risk activities: no unsupervised bones in a crate, and monitor chew sessions closely. For multi-dog households, feed separately to prevent competition-driven bolting. Work with a trainer if impulse-control is poor, and consult your veterinarian about dental or neurological issues that may impair safe chewing and swallowing. For brachycephalic breeds, keep routine airway health checks current and be extra cautious with high-risk items; airway surgery or other interventions may be part of long-term risk management for some dogs.

Recommended safety gear to keep on hand

Keep a pet first-aid kit in the home and vehicle. Useful items include disposable gloves, gauze or clean cloths for grasping objects, blunt tweezers for removing reachable items, hemostats for trained hands only, and a small flashlight. A soft, well-fitting muzzle that still allows panting can protect you during transport when the dog is conscious and breathing. Have a properly sized carrier or a sturdy harness and leash ready for rapid, safe transport to the clinic.

Prepare an emergency card with your veterinarian’s after-hours contact, the nearest 24/7 emergency hospital, and any medical conditions or medications your dog has. Consider basic pet-first-aid and CPR training from a certified instructor so you and family members can practice maneuvers safely before an actual emergency. A practiced plan reduces hesitation and improves outcomes.

If you can’t remove the object: next steps and when to seek veterinary care

If initial maneuvers fail and the dog is still breathing partially, keep the animal calm, avoid feeding or giving water, and move to emergency veterinary care immediately; the obstruction can shift and cause complete airway loss. If the dog is unresponsive and resuscitation efforts do not restore effective breathing, proceed to the nearest emergency clinic while continuing CPR. Veterinary teams can perform endoscopic retrieval or surgical airway access (tracheotomy) when needed; early arrival increases the chance of a good outcome. After any choking episode, a follow-up exam is important to check for airway trauma, swelling, or aspiration pneumonia, which may appear hours later and require treatment.

References and further resources

  • Merck Veterinary Manual: “Respiratory Distress in Dogs” — Merck Animal Health, chapter on airway obstruction and emergency management.
  • AVMA: “Pet First Aid and CPR” — American Veterinary Medical Association guidelines for recognizing and responding to airway emergencies in dogs.
  • American Red Cross & AKC: “Pet First Aid & CPR” course materials — practical step-by-step instructions and videos for owners and responders.
  • Silverstein, D.C. & Hopper, K. (Eds.): “Small Animal Critical Care Medicine” — comprehensive sections on airway obstruction, emergency airway access, and resuscitation techniques.
  • ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center and resources on foreign body ingestion and emergency contacts for toxic and obstructive emergencies.
Rasa Žiema

Rasa is a veterinary doctor and a founder of Dogo.

Dogo was born after she has adopted her fearful and anxious dog – Ūdra. Her dog did not enjoy dog schools and Rasa took on the challenge to work herself.

Being a vet Rasa realised that many people and their dogs would benefit from dog training.