How do you know when your dog is about to give birth?

Knowing when a dog is about to give birth matters because quick, calm action can protect both the mother and her puppies. Owners who recognize imminent labor can arrange a safe environment, get veterinary help if needed, and reduce the stress that makes deliveries harder. I typically see owners worry about when to interrupt a busy day or call a vet; understanding the signs and timings helps turn that worry into useful preparation.

What’s at stake: recognizing when your dog is about to whelp

Typical concerns include whether the mother needs help, how to prevent chilled or weak puppies, and when to call a vet. In many situations—blocked deliveries, fetal distress, or severe bleeding—timely veterinary intervention changes outcomes for entire litters. Early recognition also improves puppy survival by enabling prompt warming, clearing airways, and ensuring early nursing, all of which are important in those first critical minutes and hours.

Urgent signals: the immediate signs that labor has begun

A reliable early physical sign is a drop in rectal temperature. A pregnant bitch’s temperature often falls from her normal range to about 98–99°F (36.7–37.2°C) within 24 hours before active labor begins; this may suggest that progesterone levels are falling and labor will start soon. Measuring twice daily in the last week of pregnancy gives the best warning.

Behavioral signs that labor is near include restlessness, nesting, pacing, shivering, and a loss of appetite. I commonly see mothers digging into bedding or retreating to quiet corners in the hours before contractions begin; these behaviors may be driven by hormones and the instinct to prepare a den.

Active signs of stage II labor include visible abdominal contractions, frequent panting, and straining. Contractions and a steady increase in effort are the most obvious cues that a puppy is likely to arrive in minutes to a few hours. A green or brown vulvar discharge often appears just before or during delivery and is typically associated with the passing of fetal membranes; the first puppy is usually born within a few hours of that discharge.

Inside canine labor: the biological stages and what they mean

Pregnancy maintenance in the bitch is largely linked to progesterone, and a sharp decline in that hormone is likely linked to the cascade that starts labor. As progesterone falls, the uterus becomes more reactive to oxytocin, which helps produce coordinated contractions. This hormonal interplay explains why a temperature drop is a useful pre-labor indicator.

Oxytocin’s role is to coordinate uterine contractions and the mother’s laboring behavior, while fetal signals—such as changes in fetal cortisol—may trigger the onset of intense contractions. Those fetal biochemical signals are a way the litter and mother communicate readiness for birth.

Labor is commonly described in three stages. In stage I the cervix dilates and the dam is often restless and off her food; this stage may be uncomfortable but usually involves only intermittent contractions. Stage II begins with stronger, coordinated contractions and the expulsion of puppies. Stage III is the passing of placentas and uterine involution; placentas may be expelled with or shortly after each puppy.

Timing expectations: when whelping usually occurs and why dates vary

Average gestation in dogs is often quoted as 63 days from ovulation, but timing from mating can vary more widely—commonly from about 58 to 68 days depending on when fertilization occurred. That variability means “due date” ranges are estimates rather than precise times.

Litter size influences timing and duration: very large litters may deliver more quickly overall and sometimes earlier because uterine stretch promotes labor, whereas small litters or singletons may linger longer and can increase the risk of a delayed or difficult labor. Breed and age also shape expectations; brachycephalic breeds have higher rates of cesarean delivery, and first-time or older bitches can have longer stages of labor or more complications.

For planned cesareans or induced labors, veterinarians typically use progesterone testing and ultrasound assessments of fetal maturity to pick a safe time. Those medical timings are different from a naturally occurring due date and are chosen to balance fetal readiness with maternal safety.

Red flags to watch for — danger signs that need veterinary attention

Certain patterns indicate the need for urgent veterinary help. If a dam has prolonged, unrelieved stage I behavior—continuous restlessness, shaking, or severe discomfort lasting many hours—this may suggest problems with labor progression. If more than two hours pass between puppies without signs of progress, or if strong, continuous straining goes on for 20–30 minutes without producing a puppy, call your veterinarian.

Other red flags include heavy, bright red bleeding, a foul-smelling discharge, collapse or marked weakness in the mother, or visible puppy parts stuck in the birth canal that are not advancing. Weak or absent contractions alongside obvious fetal distress—such as a limp pup visible in the vulva—require immediate attention. Postpartum fever or a dam that refuses to care for the litter are also reasons to consult a veterinarian.

How to act during labor: a clear, practical checklist for owners

1. Prepare early: set up the whelping box and gather supplies well before the due window so the mother recognizes the space and you are not rushing at the last minute.
2. Monitor temperature and behavior: take rectal temperatures twice daily in the final week and note changes in appetite, nesting, and restlessness; keep a simple time log for contractions and puppy arrivals.
3. Be present but quiet during active labor: observe from close enough to help if needed, but avoid handling the dam excessively—allow her to work unless clear assistance is required.
4. Assist only when necessary: clear fluids from a newborn’s mouth if it is not breathing, stimulate breathing with gentle rubbing, and dry and warm each pup; only clamp and cut the cord if you are trained or your vet has instructed you to do so.
5. Contact your veterinarian immediately if you see any red flags such as long gaps between puppies, continuous unproductive straining, abnormal bleeding, or an unhealthy-looking dam or pups.

Preparing the whelping area: tips to create a calm, safe space

Set up an appropriately sized whelping box the mother can enter and exit while preventing small pups from wandering. The box should allow room for the mother to stretch and for you to reach each puppy comfortably. I usually recommend sides low enough for the dam to step over but high enough to keep pups contained once born.

Keep the area quiet, low-traffic, and warm. For the first 48–72 hours aim for a warm zone for the pups around 85°F (29–30°C) near a heat source, then gradually reduce to about 75°F (24°C) over the first weeks; the mother should be able to move away from the heat so she can regulate contact. Soft, absorbent bedding that can be changed easily is important to control moisture and odor.

Limit visitors and interaction with other pets during labor; additional people or animals can stress the dam and disrupt the process. Control lighting so the mother can rest—bright, constant light is unnecessary and may make her anxious—and plan how you will change bedding and warm pups without exposing them to drafts.

Essential birthing supplies and safety measures every owner should have

• Digital rectal thermometer and a notebook or timing log to track temperatures, the start of contractions, and puppy arrival times.
• Clean towels, sterile disposable gloves, and ample absorbent bedding for easy swaps after messy deliveries.
• A safe heat source with an adjustable thermostat (heat lamp or thermostatic heating pad) placed to create a warm zone, not to overheat or burn pups.
• Bulb syringe for clearing airways, sterile scissors and clamps only if your veterinarian has shown you how to use them, and antiseptic for cord care if instructed.
• An emergency contact list that includes your primary vet, the nearest 24-hour emergency clinic, and a reproduction specialist or university hospital phone number.

Who to contact: veterinarians, experienced breeders and emergency resources

Your primary-care veterinarian is the first line for guidance before and during whelping; they can advise about monitoring, when to come in, and when a cesarean might be appropriate. Emergency veterinary clinics are essential for after-hours problems. For complex reproductive issues, veterinary reproduction specialists and university veterinary hospitals can provide advanced diagnostics and surgical care.

Experienced breeders and breed-club mentors are practical resources for hands-on tips and behavioral expectations specific to your breed, but they should complement—not replace—veterinary advice. For evidence-based protocols, look to professional guidelines from organizations such as the American Veterinary Medical Association and the World Small Animal Veterinary Association, and to standard veterinary reproduction textbooks.

References and trusted resources for further reading

• Merck Veterinary Manual: “Parturition in the Bitch” — https://www.merckvetmanual.com/reproductive-system/parturition/parturition-in-the-bitch
• American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA): Whelping and Neonatal Care resources — https://www.avma.org/resources-tools/pet-owners/petcare/whelping-and-neonatal-care
• World Small Animal Veterinary Association (WSAVA): Guidelines on Neonatal and Puppy Care — https://www.wsava.org/Guidelines/
• Noakes DE, Parkinson TJ, England GCW. Veterinary Reproduction and Obstetrics, 10th Edition. Elsevier; sections on canine parturition.
• Johnston SD, Root Kustritz MV, Olson PNS. Canine and Feline Theriogenology, 2nd Edition. Saunders; chapter on whelping and neonatal management.