How do i know my dog is in labor?

Recognizing when your dog is in labor matters more than emotion alone; timing and correct responses directly affect puppy survival and the mother’s health. Owners who spot labor early are able to provide warmth, prevent hypoxia in newborns, and arrange veterinary help when complications arrive. Whether you’re a first-time owner who found a surprise pregnancy, someone managing a planned litter, or simply a dog lover who wants to be prepared, being able to read the signs can make the difference between a routine whelping and an emergency trip to the clinic.

How spotting labor early protects the mother and her puppies

Typical owner scenarios vary: a first-time dam may seem uncertain and require calm reassurance, an accidental pregnancy can catch even seasoned owners off guard, and planned breeding often involves careful monitoring. In every case the emotional and practical stakes are similar — newborn puppies lose heat quickly, can become stressed if delivery stalls, and the dam is at risk for hemorrhage, infection, or uterine inertia. I often see that owners who understand labor cues get help sooner, which is likely linked to better outcomes for both the mother and her pups. When a stage of labor is taking longer than expected or a dam shows extreme distress, immediate veterinary help often protects lifesaving interventions like oxytocin administration, assisted delivery, or emergency surgery.

At-a-glance signs that your dog may be in labor

If you need a fast checklist to decide whether labor has started, watch behavior, look for physical changes, and note timing. Behaviorally, many bitches begin nesting, pacing, digging at bedding, panting more than usual, seeking seclusion, or showing clinginess. Physically, a drop in rectal temperature from the mid-101°Fs (about 38.5–39.2°C) down toward 99°F (about 37.2°C) often occurs 12–24 hours before active labor; you may also see a thin, clear to slightly blood-tinged mucus discharge and visible abdominal tightening or contractions. Timing cues that confirm active labor include strong, repeated straining and visible delivery of a puppy — once active straining with pushing begins, puppies often arrive within minutes to a couple of hours for each pup, though variability is common.

• Behavioral cues: nesting, restlessness, panting, seeking seclusion.
• Physical cues: drop in rectal temperature, mucus discharge, contractions.
• Timing cues: onset of active straining and visible puppy delivery.

What happens in your dog’s body during labor

At a biological level, labor is the body’s coordinated effort to move puppies from uterus to world. Hormone shifts are central: progesterone from the pregnancy-supporting phase declines, which is likely linked to cervical softening and uterine sensitivity to oxytocin. Oxytocin release helps trigger the uterine contractions that push puppies down the birth canal. Labor generally follows three stages: the first stage may last several hours and is mainly internal — the cervix dilates and the dam shows behavior changes like nesting and restlessness. Stage two is the active delivery phase when regular contractions and pushing expel each pup. Stage three follows each pup’s birth and involves passing the placenta; typically a placenta will come with or soon after each puppy, and it’s useful to keep track to ensure none are retained.

When labor usually starts — timing and normal variations

Normal gestation in dogs is often cited as about 63 days from ovulation but this is an average; a healthy range of delivery from roughly 58 to 68 days is not uncommon, and breed differences can shift timing. You may see the pre-labor temperature drop 12–24 hours before active whelping; some dams begin obvious nesting behavior well in advance. Factors that can alter timing include the size of the litter — very large litters can lead to earlier or prolonged labor — and whether this is a first pregnancy; I typically see that first-time dams can have longer, less predictable stage 1 behavior. Small breeds sometimes deliver at slightly different paces than large breeds. Because due dates are estimates, it’s helpful to monitor trends (temperature, behavior) rather than rely on a single calendar day.

Danger signals during labor: when to call the vet immediately

Most whelpings proceed without intervention, but several signs mean you should contact your vet or an emergency clinic immediately. If a dam is hard-straining for more than two hours without producing a puppy, that prolonged stage two is a major red flag. Similarly, more than 30 minutes of intense straining between puppies without any progress suggests a problem. Abnormal discharges — especially heavy bloody flow before labor begins, or a foul-smelling discharge after delivery — may indicate infection or placental detachment and require prompt evaluation. Maternal collapse, high fever, severe, unrelenting pain, or unresponsiveness are emergencies. Newborns that are limp, not breathing after basic stimulation, or clearly malformed need urgent veterinary attention; likewise, if you count fewer placentas than puppies or see green-black discharge prior to the first pup, call your veterinarian because fetal death or retained placenta may be present.

If labor begins: clear, practical steps for the owner to follow

Prepare before labor, monitor closely during, and know when to step in. Before labor, I recommend recording your dog’s rectal temperature twice daily in the last week so you know her baseline, assembling supplies (listed below), and letting your vet know the estimated due window plus an emergency contact number. During labor, keep written notes of the time each puppy is born, when each placenta is passed, and any pauses or complications. Count placentas; each pup should generally have its own placenta within a short interval. If you need to assist a newborn, follow simple, cautious steps: clear mucus from the pup’s mouth and nose with a bulb syringe or gentle suction, rub the pup briskly with a clean towel to stimulate breathing, and keep it warm. Avoid pulling on a stuck puppy — if you feel resistance or the pup is not coming with steady contractions, call the vet. If the dam does not tear membranes or sever the umbilical cord within a few minutes, and you are comfortable doing so, you may clamp and cut the cord about an inch from the pup with clean tools; otherwise wait for the mother or a professional. Call your veterinarian immediately if labor stalls, if bleeding is heavy, if the dam becomes weak or disoriented, or if any pup appears non-viable or is not breathing after two to three minutes of stimulation.

1. Pre-labor: record temperature daily, assemble supplies, notify your vet of due window.
2. During labor: time each pup and placenta, keep the area warm and quiet, observe maternal behavior.
3. Assisting puppies: clear airways, dry and rub to stimulate breathing, avoid forceful pulling.
4. Call the vet for prolonged straining (>2 hours with no pup), >30 minutes between pups, heavy bleeding, collapse, or non-breathing puppies after stimulation.

Preparing the whelping area: tips for a calm, clean, safe space

A calm, safe environment reduces stress and helps labor progress. A whelping box should be large enough for the dam to lie comfortably stretched out and for pups to have a warm corner; sides should be low enough for the mother to step over but high enough to prevent puppies from wandering out. Use bedding that is easy to change — absorbent towels and disposable whelping pads work well — and place a clean layer under the dam to protect flooring and allow rapid changes. Cleanliness matters, but avoid over-sanitizing to the point of stressing the dam; a quiet, dimly lit room with limited foot traffic is usually best. Newborn puppies need high ambient warmth; a dedicated heat source with a thermostat (infrared lamp or thermostatically controlled warming pad) allows you to keep a warm zone while leaving cooler areas so pups can move away if they overheat. Introduce the whelping box and handle the dam gently during late pregnancy so she becomes comfortable with the space; I find that bitches who know their box are less anxious when labor begins.

Whelping essentials: the must-have gear for safe deliveries

Having the right items on hand makes it easier to monitor and support both dam and pups. A digital rectal thermometer and a reliable watch or timer are essential for tracking temperature changes and timing deliveries. A small scale that measures grams helps you track puppy weight gain in the first days. For comfort and hygiene, prepare a sturdy whelping box, several absorbent towels, disposable pads, and a supply of clean blankets. Immediate-care tools should include a bulb syringe for airway clearing, sterile gloves for handling if you need to intervene, and a warming pad with a thermostat to avoid overheating. Many owners keep a clean pair of small scissors and dental floss or sterile clamps to deal with an umbilical cord if necessary, but only use those if you are confident and the mother does not handle it herself. Always have your veterinarian’s number and the nearest emergency clinic’s number at the ready.

Trusted references and where to learn more

• Merck Veterinary Manual: Pregnancy, Whelping, and Dystocia in Dogs — sections on parturition and dystocia management
• American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA): Canine reproduction and whelping guidance for veterinarians and owners
• John P. Graham, David E. Noakes, “Veterinary Reproduction and Obstetrics” — chapters on canine parturition and neonatal care
• Your primary veterinarian and local emergency veterinary clinic: individualized guidance for breed-specific or health-specific concerns