How to get two dogs to get along?

When two dogs share a home, the relationship between them shapes daily life: walks, meals, naps, and the emotional tone of the household. Whether you’re bringing a newly adopted dog into a home with a resident dog, fostering temporarily, or hoping to maintain a calm multi-dog family long-term, the goal is the same—reduce stress, prevent injury, and support both dogs’ welfare. I typically see owners underestimate how much the introduction process and ongoing management affect outcomes; small changes early on can save weeks of tension later.

Harmony at Home: How two dogs getting along improves life for you and your pets

Bringing two dogs together is common for people who adopt from shelters, foster rescue placements, or expand a family. Dogs that fail to coexist may show chronic stress, avoid shared spaces, or escalate to fights that cause injury and long-term behavioral change. For rescue and foster scenarios, a failed match can mean another move for a vulnerable dog, which is stressful and can reduce adoptability. For long-term households, unresolved tension eats into the quality of everyday interactions—less relaxed walks, guarded feeding times, and frequent owner mediation. Getting this right benefits the dogs’ physical health, emotional wellbeing, and your peace of mind.

Bottom line — the core steps that help two dogs coexist

Start with calm, structured introductions, create positive associations, limit competition, and get professional help for escalation. The most practical first steps you can take are these:

1. Introduce dogs in a calm, supervised way—neutral ground or parallel walks work best.
2. Pair the other dog’s presence with good things: meals, treats, and gentle praise for calm behavior.
3. Manage resources so food, toys, and high-value resting spots are not a source of conflict.
4. Slowly increase interaction time based on consistent positive signs; stop and regress if you see tension.
5. Call a qualified behavior professional or your vet if growling increases, fights occur, or you see sudden changes in behavior.

How dogs communicate: reading body language and pack instincts

Dogs communicate constantly through posture, facial expression, tail movement, ear position, and the timing of looks and movements. A loose, wiggly body and soft eyes commonly suggest comfort, whereas a stiff posture, direct stare, closed mouth, and fixed tail position may suggest tension or readiness to escalate. These signals are subtle and can change within seconds; reading them in context is essential.

Scent is another major channel. Dogs gather information through sniffing—who’s been where, what they ate, and how they feel. Scent swapping (rubbing a towel on one dog and letting the other smell it) is a practical way to exchange information before face-to-face contact and may reduce uncertainty.

People often talk about “dominance” as if it fully explains conflict, but many disputes are better understood as competition over resources or responses to stress. Social hierarchies may be present in some groups, yet much dog-to-dog tension is linked to access to food, attention, or favored resting spots. Early socialization and each dog’s learning history also shape how they interpret and respond to each other; dogs who had rough or limited social experience as puppies may be more reactive in adult introductions.

What sparks conflict: common triggers and situational risk factors

Conflicts are often context-dependent. Resource competition—food, high-value chew items, favored toys, or a specific couch spot—predictably increases the risk of guarding and fights. Tensions also rise in high-stress situations like moving houses, unfamiliar visitors, thunderstorms, or when a routine is disrupted. Even predictable changes such as introducing a new baby or adult moving in can shift interactions.

Hormones and reproductive status matter: intact males and females may show more mounting or possessive behaviors, and these can be triggers in some pairings. Health changes influence interactions too; pain, hormonal shifts, or the sensory loss that comes with aging may make a previously tolerant dog less willing to share space.

Danger signs: behavioral and medical red flags you shouldn’t ignore

Watch for repeated growling, prolonged staring, freezing, or stiffening—these may suggest escalation is likely. Fast escalation to snapping or bites that leave puncture wounds requires immediate attention. Sudden changes in social behavior—an outgoing dog that suddenly withdraws or a peaceful dog that becomes reactive—may indicate pain or illness. I often recommend that owners consult their veterinarian for a medical check if behavior changes appear abrupt, because conditions like arthritis, dental pain, or neurological issues can underlie aggression.

If there is bleeding, deep puncture wounds, or a dog that refuses to eat or uses the bathroom normally after a fight, seek veterinary care promptly. For repeated aggressive incidents or bites, involve a certified behavior professional; a trained specialist can assess risk, design a management plan, and guide safe training progressions.

A phased introduction plan — from first meeting to confident coexistence

Preparation matters. Before the dogs meet, set up separate safe zones—rooms or crates where each dog can rest undisturbed. Swap bedding or rub towels on each dog’s flanks to exchange scents; letting each dog investigate the other’s scent at their own pace may reduce surprise and tension during first contact.

Meetings on neutral ground are usually less charged than meeting inside the resident dog’s home territory. A common approach is a parallel walk: both dogs on loose leashes, walking the same route with several meters between them, and gradually closing the distance as both remain relaxed. Praise and treat frequently when they look at you or remain calm.

Short, supervised face-to-face interactions should follow only when both dogs have shown relaxed behavior during parallel walks. Keep interactions brief at first—two to five minutes—and end on a positive note with treats or a favorite toy. Repeat several times a day, slowly increasing duration only if calm behavior is consistent. If tension appears—raised hackles, stiff posture, or repeated lunging—separate calmly and return to earlier, safer steps in the plan.

Before allowing unsupervised access, make sure each dog reliably responds to basic cues (come, leave it, place/settle) in the presence of the other. Unsupervised freedom should come only after multiple calm sessions and a clear record of non-reactive behavior in varied contexts.

Daily management: setting up your home and training routines for peace

Prevention is often more effective than correction. Feed dogs separately—either in different rooms or using barriers—so mealtimes are predictable and stress-free. Put high-value chews or toys in separate locations. Consider scheduled one-on-one time with each dog to meet their social and enrichment needs and to reduce competition for attention.

Teach and reinforce calm cues. “Place” (a dog settling on a mat), “settle,” and “leave it” are practical skills because they let you interrupt potentially risky moments and give dogs an alternative behavior. Short, frequent training sessions build these skills faster than occasional long sessions. Exercise and mental enrichment also reduce reactivity; a tired dog is often more tolerant.

Rotate toys and attention to avoid constant rivalry for a single item. If one dog reliably escalates around a particular resource, manage that resource long-term rather than relying on willpower. Predictable routines—consistent feeding times, walks, and rest periods—help dogs know what to expect and may reduce anxiety-driven conflicts.

Safety and gear: practical equipment to support safe introductions

Use a front-clip harness and sturdy leash for better control during introductions and walks; these tools make it easier to redirect a dog without causing neck strain. Baby gates, crates, or exercise pens are invaluable for creating separation when needed; a gated doorway allows dogs to see one another without full access and can be a training bridge.

Properly fitted muzzles, used as a temporary safety tool under the guidance of a professional, can prevent bites during supervised interactions while training continues. They are not a solution in themselves but can be a responsible risk-reduction step. Consider vet-approved calming aids—such as synthetic pheromone diffusers or medication—as adjuncts when stress levels are high, but only after consulting your veterinarian. These supports can create a window during which training and management strategies are more effective.

Where to turn for help: trainers, vets, and vetted resources

When the situation feels beyond your skill or when bites occur, look for qualified help. Veterinary behaviorists (those with board certification) can evaluate medical contributors and prescribe medication if needed. Certified applied animal behaviorists and certified, force-free trainers can design long-term behavior modification plans focused on learning and reward. Local shelter behavior teams and experienced rescue trainers can provide practical, context-specific advice and short-term support. When contacting a professional, ask about credentials, experience with dog-dog aggression, and whether they use reward-based methods.

When to change course: troubleshooting, alternatives, and next steps

Not every pairing becomes best friends. If, after careful, stepwise work and professional help, the dogs still cannot safely coexist, consider long-term management strategies that prioritize safety and welfare: permanent separation of living spaces, scheduled solo time, or rehoming one dog to a more compatible household. These options are not failures; they are welfare-focused decisions when compatibility cannot be achieved without undue risk. Throughout, prioritize the physical and emotional health of both dogs and the safety of people in the home.

References and further reading

• Merck Veterinary Manual: “Aggressive Behavior in Dogs” — https://www.merckvetmanual.com/behavior/behavioral-disorders-in-dogs/aggression-in-dogs
• American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB): Position Statements and Guidelines — https://avsab.org/resources/position-statements/
• ASPCA: “Introducing a New Dog to a Resident Dog” — https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/dog-care/common-dog-behaviors/introducing-new-dog-resident-dog
• The Humane Society of the United States: “Introducing Dogs” guide — https://www.humanesociety.org/resources/introducing-dogs
• American College of Veterinary Behaviorists (ACVB): Find a Veterinary Behaviorist — https://www.dacvb.org/
• International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants (IAABC): Resources on Dog-Dog Aggression and Introductions — https://m.iaabc.org/page/DogAggression