How to get rid of dog?
Post Date:
December 23, 2025
(Date Last Modified: February 5, 2026)
When someone types “how to get rid of dog” they are usually not looking for cruelty; they are overwhelmed, scared, embarrassed, or out of practical options. For a dog lover the phrase often means “how can I stop suffering, either mine or the dog’s, and find a better solution.” The right response depends on why the dog is a problem, how urgent the situation is, and what the owner can or cannot do. I typically see people who love their dog but face constraints—health, mobility, housing, finances, or safety—that make keeping the dog feel impossible. This guide walks through humane, practical choices and steps that respect both the person and the animal.
When rehoming becomes necessary: common situations and what owners need to consider
People consider giving a dog up for a range of reasons. The most common are a major life change—moving to a non-pet rental, a new baby or medical allergy in the household; ongoing financial strain where routine and emergency care become unaffordable; or behavior problems that the owner cannot safely manage. Some owners are elderly and find daily care or exercise beyond their abilities. First-time owners sometimes encounter a mismatch between expectations and reality: puppies that are destructive or adults who have undisclosed behavior histories. Renters may be forced to choose between housing and a pet. Every one of these situations carries strong emotional weight for someone who cares about animals.
- Reasons people consider rehoming: moving to pet-free housing, new or worsening allergies, financial hardship, chronic behavior problems, or a change in family ability to care.
- Typical audiences: first-time owners learning limits, elderly owners with mobility or health changes, renters facing lease rules, and caregivers balancing multiple dependents.
- Ethical concerns: owners worry about the dog’s welfare, potential separation trauma, and the morality of surrendering versus keeping an animal in a poor situation.
Immediate, humane choices you can take today
If you need an action you can take today, there are humane short-term and longer-term choices that preserve safety and well-being. Short-term steps can buy time while you explore solutions: temporary foster care with a friend or rescue, supervised boarding, day programs that provide exercise and socialization, or a short-term behavior/medical evaluation. Permanent choices include rehoming to a vetted adopter, a breed-specific rescue, or, as a last resort, surrendering to a shelter that can place the dog. Before making any permanent decision, seek a veterinary check and behavior assessment; many problems are treatable or manageable. When rehoming, prioritize reputable paths that will document the dog’s needs and medical history so the next home can succeed.
- Short-term management: temporary fostering, boarding, medication only when prescribed as a bridge, and behavior consultation to stabilize the situation.
- Permanent rehoming: privately rehome to a screened adopter, contact breed-specific rescues, use shelter intake only if other vetted options are exhausted.
- Always seek medical and behavioral assessment before surrendering; many issues may improve and owners often find alternatives once they have a plan.
Why dogs behave the way they do — key causes behind problem behaviors
Unwanted behaviors usually make more sense when seen as attempts to communicate or meet biological needs. Dogs are social animals that seek structure and connection; separation-related behaviors often stem from attachment and anxiety, not spite. Territorial guarding, growling, or barking can be an attempt to control a perceived threat. I often explain that chewing or digging may reflect excess energy or frustration rather than malice. Hormonal states—intact animals during breeding season, for example—can increase roaming or mounting behaviors. Illness, pain, or sensory decline can also change how a dog responds to people and stimuli; what looks like stubbornness may be discomfort or confusion.
Body language, vocalization, and subtle signals are the dog’s language. A stiff posture, lip lift, or hard stare likely suggests escalating stress; yawns, turning away, and low-level lip licking may be attempts to diffuse tension. Recognizing these signals helps owners intervene earlier and more safely, and it may change a rehoming decision when a dog’s behavior is primarily a response to environment or routine rather than personality.
Typical moments when problems emerge — age, environment and life changes
Behavioral problems often emerge around predictable events. Puppies go through phases where fear periods and teething create challenges. Adolescence brings testing behavior as dogs mature, and intact dogs may change behavior seasonally. Major life events—moves, new family members, a partner leaving, or changes in work schedule—are classic triggers because they disrupt routine and social stability. New stimuli like construction noise, new dogs in the neighborhood, or repeated startling events can produce sudden increases in barking, reactivity, or avoidance.
Age-related factors are also common. Senior dogs may develop cognitive decline, vision or hearing loss, or pain that presents as confusion, house-soiling, or irritability. I typically see owners who interpret these signs as purposeful misbehavior when the underlying cause is medical. Understanding timing—when the behavior started relative to changes—helps prioritize a medical exam versus a training plan.
Warning signs that a situation has become unsafe for you or the dog
Some signs require immediate veterinary or professional intervention rather than delayed problem-solving. Sudden aggressive behavior with biting or an escalation in intensity that leads to human or animal injury is an urgent red flag. Rapid behavioral change—one day mild and the next increasingly reactive—may suggest pain, neurological disease, or toxin exposure. Other emergency signs include loss of appetite with weight loss, repeated vomiting or diarrhea, seizures, collapse, or inability to stand. Self-injury like excessive licking to the point of wounds or persistent pacing that prevents rest also needs prompt assessment.
If any of these occur, prioritize safety: remove at-risk people or animals from the environment, secure the dog in a safe, quiet space, and call your veterinarian or an emergency clinic. If the dog has bitten, local public health or animal control guidance may apply; follow local laws but also seek veterinary and behaviorist input before making final decisions.
Concrete next steps: a practical checklist to follow
Start by documenting. Keep a simple log of when behaviors happen, what immediately preceded them, where they occur, who is present, and what the outcome is. Photos and short videos are extremely helpful for a veterinarian or behaviorist. Note medical history, diet, recent vaccines, and any changes at home or work. This record both informs decisions and makes rehoming more ethical by providing the next caregiver a clear picture.
Next, get a veterinary exam. A physical check and basic diagnostics may rule out pain, infection, thyroid problems, or neurological issues that can change behavior. Discuss medication only as part of a wider plan; medication may help reduce anxiety enough for training to work but usually is not a standalone solution. Ask your veterinarian about referral to a board-certified veterinary behaviorist if available.
Then pursue a behavior plan with a qualified trainer or behaviorist who uses reward-based methods. I usually recommend a short, focused program with measurable goals and weekly check-ins so you can see progress or adjust tactics. If after a reasonable, documented effort—medical care and professional behavior intervention—keeping the dog is still unsafe or impossible, prepare the dog for rehoming: collect medical records, list known triggers and successful management techniques, and create a clear summary of exercise, feeding, and enrichment needs.
If rehoming is necessary, exhaust vetted pathways first. Contact breed-specific rescues that have experience with the breed’s typical needs. Many rescues offer behavior rehab or foster-to-adopt models. When rehoming privately, screen adopters carefully: meet in neutral settings, ask for veterinary references, and consider a foster-to-adopt trial with a written agreement. Surrender to a municipal or private shelter should be a final choice when no reputable rescue or adopter is available; ask about the shelter’s placement and analysis process so the dog’s needs are known.
Change the environment, change the outcome — management and training tactics that work
Environmental changes often produce the biggest, quickest improvements. Stabilize routine: consistent feeding, walks, and quiet times reduce anxiety. Provide a predictable, safe area where the dog can retreat—a crate or bed in a low-traffic room—and practice short departures that build confidence rather than dramatic exits. Increase structured exercise: a tired dog is less likely to engage in unwanted behaviors. I recommend 20–60 minutes of activity a day depending on age and breed; adjust intensity for seniors.
Implement enrichment that matches the dog’s natural drives. Scent work, food puzzles, and short training sessions give mental outlets for dogs who become destructive from boredom. For reactive dogs, use desensitization and counterconditioning: slowly expose the dog to low levels of the trigger paired with high-value rewards, increasing intensity only while the dog remains below a stress threshold. Positive reinforcement—praising and rewarding calm alternative behaviors—tends to be safer and more durable than punishment. If the dog responds to training progress, document improvements to help future placement if rehoming remains the best path.
Safe equipment and tools: what to use (and what to avoid)
Choose equipment that minimizes risk and supports training. A well-fitting harness that does not restrict breathing but gives you control at the shoulders is safer for walks than a choke-style attachment. Use a reliable leash—six feet for everyday walks and a longer line in safe areas for controlled off-leash work. Collars should be sized and fitted so they cannot slip off; microchipping and ID tags are essential before any temporary foster or rehoming.
Crates, exercise pens, and baby gates create secure boundaries and can reduce stress when introduced properly. Use puzzle feeders, chew-safe toys, and treat-dispensing devices to provide mental stimulation. Calming aids like thundershirts or white-noise machines may help some dogs in the short term. Avoid punitive devices such as shock collars and choke chains; they can increase fear and aggression and complicate future placement. Any tool should be used humanely and as part of an overall management and training plan.
Sources, further reading and organizations that can help
- Merck Veterinary Manual: “Canine Separation Anxiety” and “Canine Aggression” sections — https://www.merckvetmanual.com/
- American Veterinary Medical Association: “Deciding Whether to Rehome a Pet” guidance — https://www.avma.org/
- American College of Veterinary Behaviorists (ACVB): resources on seeking board-certified behaviorists and behavior medication guidelines — https://www.dacvb.org/
- Association of Professional Dog Trainers: position statements and resources on reward-based training — https://apdt.com/
- ASPCA: “Planning for Pet Placement and Surrender” and behavior resources — https://www.aspca.org/
