How to groom a dog?

In Positive Dog Training, Questions About Dogs

Post Date:
December 18, 2025

(Date Last Modified: February 5, 2026)

Grooming a dog is more than aesthetics: it’s a routine that supports health, comfort and the relationship between you and your dog. Below I outline why it matters, a fast-action plan for busy owners, the biology under the coat, when to groom, what to watch for, a step-by-step home routine, how to set up and train for calm sessions, and the tools worth having on hand.

How regular grooming improves your dog’s health — and your life

Regular grooming gives you a close, hands-on view of your dog’s body. While brushing or bathing, owners often notice lumps, bumps, hot spots or parasites earlier than they would otherwise; those findings may suggest an underlying problem that a vet needs to see. I typically find that simple checks at home can shorten the time between problem onset and professional care.

Grooming is also practical for behavior. Calm, routine handling tends to lower anxiety in many dogs and improves tolerance of future care—what I call preventative socialization. It’s an opportunity to reinforce trust: gentle touches, treats and predictable patterns help dogs accept exams, nail trims and vet visits more readily.

For breed-specific dogs, grooming maintains the traits that help them thrive. A working Labrador’s coat is managed differently than a Poodle’s clipped coat; keeping the right cut or length often supports the dog’s comfort and performance. Additionally, consistent grooming helps control hair and dander in the home, which may reduce allergen load and keep living spaces cleaner for people with mild sensitivities.

Grooming in a minute: the essential practices every dog needs

Here’s a compact, actionable snapshot you can follow today. Adjust frequency and technique to your dog’s coat, health and tolerance.

Brushing: short, smooth coats—once a week; medium or long coats—several times a week; curly or high-maintenance coats—daily to prevent tangles.
Bathing: most dogs need a bath every 4–12 weeks depending on activity and skin condition; use a gentle, dog-formulated shampoo and skip daily bathing unless directed by a vet.
Nails and ears: trim nails every 3–6 weeks or when you hear clicking on hard floors; check ears weekly for wax, odor or redness and clean only with veterinarian-recommended solutions if needed.
Teeth: brush several times a week with dog toothpaste or provide veterinarian-approved dental chews to reduce plaque.
Professional help: consult a groomer for complex trims, heavy matting, or coat types you’re unfamiliar with; see a vet if you find persistent itching, sores, or sudden behavior changes during grooming.

What your dog’s coat is telling you — texture, growth cycles, and cues

Coats vary in structure and function. Single coats are a single layer of hair that may shed continuously; double coats have a dense undercoat for insulation with longer guard hairs that protect from rain and debris. Curly and corded coats trap air and shed less at the surface but may mat; wire coats have a coarse texture and often need stripping or clipping to remain healthy. Each type is arranged to protect skin, repel water and help regulate temperature.

The skin produces oils that keep hair supple and provide a microbial balance; over-washing can strip these oils and may make skin dry or irritated in some dogs. Insulation and thermoregulation are linked to coat density: a thick undercoat may keep a dog warmer in cold months but can make heat dissipation harder in summer—regular deshedding at season changes may help your dog stay comfortable.

Shedding follows biological cycles and is influenced by day length, hormones and nutrition. Dogs may “blow” their coats seasonally, shedding large volumes over a few weeks; this is likely linked to changing daylight and temperature. During these times, increased brushing helps remove loose hair before it mats and reduces hair around the house.

While you groom, pay attention to body language. A dog that tenses, pins ears, averts gaze, yawns repeatedly, or tries to escape may be stressed. Growling, snapping, or freezing are stronger signals that the dog is uncomfortable or fearful. I usually slow down, offer breaks and use high-value rewards when I see these signs, and stop if the dog becomes aggressive or panicked.

When to groom: seasonal, life-stage, and behavioral signals

Seasonal changes are a common trigger: many dogs shed more in spring and fall as their coats adjust. Warm-weather bathing and deshedding can improve comfort, while in winter you may want to trim less to preserve insulation. Activity matters too—dogs that swim, hike in brush, or roll in soil will need more frequent cleaning and checks for ticks, burrs and matting.

Age and medical status change grooming needs. Puppies require short, gentle sessions to build tolerance; senior dogs may be stiffer or have vision/hearing changes that make grooming harder, so sessions should be shorter and slower. Certain medications or endocrine disorders may thin hair or alter skin condition; changes like unusual shedding or brittle hair are worth mentioning to your veterinarian.

Different breeds have different growth cycles and maintenance intervals. For example, a long-coated breed may need professional trimming every 6–8 weeks to prevent matting, while short-coated dogs often manage well with home brushing and occasional baths. Match your schedule to the coat type and the dog’s lifestyle rather than a fixed calendar.

Red flags and risks: skin problems, matting, and when to get help

Some signs require prompt professional attention. Persistent itching, patchy hair loss, red or scaly skin, or open sores may indicate infection, allergies, parasites or hormonal issues. If a groom reveals any of these and they don’t improve quickly, schedule a veterinary exam.

Severe matting is more than an aesthetic problem: when mats pull at the skin they can cause pain, restrict movement, and trap moisture and bacteria. If mats are tight against the skin, smell bad, or you can see irritated skin underneath, professional dematting or clipping is safer than trying to remove them with household tools.

Recurring ear problems—bad odor, dark discharge, head shaking or chronic redness—may suggest infection. Ear cleaning should be cautious and only with appropriate solutions; recurrent issues usually benefit from veterinary diagnosis and targeted treatment.

Behavioral red flags during grooming include extreme fear, growling that escalates, uncontrolled aggression, or physical injury like bleeding or sudden lameness after a session. If grooming causes these outcomes, pause grooming and consult a behaviorist or vet before continuing.

A practical routine: daily, weekly and monthly grooming tasks for owners

Follow this practical sequence for a routine home groom. Keep sessions short and end on a positive note so your dog learns to expect a predictable outcome.

Pre-groom checklist: gather tools, choose a non-slip surface, have treats ready, and ensure the dog has relieved itself and is calm. Check for recent wounds, medications, or behavior changes before touching sensitive areas.
Calming routine: start with 5–10 minutes of quiet petting and gentle stroking in the areas the dog enjoys. Use a steady voice and offer small treats to create positive associations. If the dog is anxious, break the session into 2–3 short segments.
Brushing and detangling: work from head to tail and brush in the direction of hair growth. For tangles, hold the base of the hair to avoid pulling the skin and use a detangling comb or a de-matting tool gently. For double coats, a deshedding tool can remove loose undercoat; remove small amounts gradually rather than trying to strip all loose hairs at once.
Bathing: wet thoroughly with lukewarm water, apply a small amount of dog-formulated shampoo, lather gently avoiding the eyes and ears, rinse completely, apply conditioner if needed, and rinse again. Rinse well—soap residue can irritate skin. Towel dry then use a low-heat dryer if the dog tolerates it; keep the dryer moving to avoid hot spots.
Nails, ears and eyes: trim nails with a clipper suited to your dog’s size, cutting small amounts to avoid the quick; file if needed for smooth edges. Inspect ears for wax or redness; wipe outer ear only with a vet-approved cleaner. Wipe around eyes with a soft, damp cloth and address tear staining per breed needs.
Finishing inspection: run your hands over the coat to feel for missed tangles, lumps or skin irregularities. Praise and offer a final treat. Note anything unusual and record it for follow-up or your next vet visit.

Create a calm grooming space and train your dog to cooperate

Create a safe, predictable grooming area. A non-slip mat on a stable surface, good lighting, and a comfortable room temperature reduce stress and accidents. Keep tools within reach to avoid leaving the dog unattended on an elevated table.

Desensitization is training in small steps: introduce one tool at a time, let the dog sniff it, then reward calm behavior. Use short sessions—2 to 5 minutes at first—and increase duration gradually. I often recommend pairing each new sensation (a clippers’ vibration, the sound of a dryer) with high-value treats so the dog learns the noise is not a threat.

Gentle handling and safe restraint help most dogs feel secure. Use a harness and leash or a short, light loop on a grooming arm rather than a harsh choke device. For recalcitrant dogs, consider professional training or consulting a behaviorist before using stronger restraint methods. Establishing a consistent grooming schedule—same day of week or month—sets expectations and reduces resistance over time.

The grooming kit: must-have brushes, clippers, and safety gear

Match tools to coat type and your skill level. For most owners, a slicker brush plus a wide-tooth comb covers many needs: the brush removes surface hair and tangles, the comb helps locate mats and check for fleas. Curly and thick coats often benefit from a pin brush and a rake for undercoat work. Avoid metal combs that snag on brittle hair; use ones with rounded teeth for comfort.

Clippers and scissors are useful for trims, but choose clippers with variable speeds and blade types appropriate for dogs; use clippers only if you’re comfortable and start with an easier area like the chest. Blunt-ended scissors are safer around paws and face; never cut toward the dog’s body without clear visibility and calm cooperation.

For bathing, choose a mild, dog-formulated shampoo—medicated products should be used under veterinary guidance. A microfiber towel absorbs water faster than a standard towel; a low-heat, quiet dryer reduces stress for many dogs but keep it moving and maintain a distance to prevent burns. Nail trimmers designed for dogs and a styptic product for accidental nicks are essential. Finally, keep a basic first-aid kit with antiseptic wipes, sterile gauze, and a leash for emergencies.